SCHOOL YOUR HORSE BY LORRAINE JENNINGS

• Stretch Him, Don’t Drop Him
  6 days ago

  When you ask your horse to stretch does he seem confused? Can you blame him? Ever since he was broken he’s been taught to shorten, work rounder or slow down. Suddenly along comes a dressage test and he’s expected to understand (and be grateful) that he’s allowed to stretch. Is it any wonder he’s confused?

   

  If your horse is going to understand you need to make sure you understand first. In the same way as free walk on a long rein doesn’t mean walk on the buckle, allowing your horse to stretch doesn’t mean trot round the school with no contact.

   

  The judge wants to see your horse working forward in a balanced, rhythmical trot. That shouldn’t change just because you’re allowing him to stretch. Usually you’ll be asked to do it on a circle. Read the test. It will probably say ‘circle at A and allow your horse to stretch’ not ‘allow your horse to stretch and then circle at A’. That’s a difference of at least 10m. It’s enough to get him balanced. Wait until you’re on the correct line before you even think about relaxing your contact.

   

  It’s easy to think if you drop the contact your horse will stretch down automatically but imagine you’re resting your elbows on the table and that table just disappeared. What would you do? Initially your shoulders would drop like a dead weight. Then, in an attempt to save yourself, you’d hollow your back and tighten your stomach and neck muscles. Which is exactly what your horse does when you drop your contact.

   

  The length of your horse’s body is controlled by the length of your reins not by your contact (or lack of one). Your contact behaves like the lid on a coke bottle when you shake it. It holds back the fizz and the pressure. It doesn’t matter how long the neck of the bottle is, if there’s a lid at the end of it the drink will always fizz. Lose that lid and the drink will spill out. Lose your contact and not only will your horse lose energy, he’ll lose his balance.

   

  To get your horse to stretch correctly he must trust your hands and accept your contact. If he does that he’ll work into it and look for it. When it moves away from him he’ll stretch out until he finds it. (Like the fizzy drink running up the neck of a bottle) If it’s not there his weight will fall onto his shoulders and his hocks will stop working.

   

  It’s important to understand you have to push your horse to your hand not pull him back to it. If he’s going to reach forward to find it he needs to be balanced and he needs to have energy. (If there’s no fizz it can’t run up the neck of the bottle) Every time you pull back on your reins he’ll tighten his back. That tension won’t go the second you ask him to stretch. At best he’ll stay in the same place, at worst he’ll hollow and rush.

   

  Ride a 20m circle at E/B so your horse doesn’t have the fence to help him. Push him from both legs into an even contact in both reins. (There’s another great exercise to try here – http://www.schoolyourhorse.com/2011/12/10/get-your-horse-connected/ )

   

  On the circle slow your horse down by using your knee and thigh pushed into the saddle as hard as you can.  This means your contact can stay consistent and you can use your lower legs to keep his hocks under his body. Ask him to slow down until he’s almost walking. You’ll need to use plenty of lower leg to keep him in trot. Then keep hold of your contact but release your knee and thigh. You’ll feel him go forward into your contact but don’t relax it. Keep your lower leg on and push him to it.

   

  When your horse is accepting the bit – not leaning on it – the weight in your hand should be a forward pressure – similar to a child pulling you down the street (not hanging off the bottom of your arm!) If there is no pressure in your hand there is no horse on the end of your reins.

   

  Initially trot half a circle as slow as you can get your horse to go and then allow him forward for the other half. As he starts to understand shorten the distance between slowing down and allowing him forward to ¼ of a circle. You’ll be so busy thinking about pushing him forward again you’ll have your legs on as you slow down without thinking about it. That’s what keeps him balanced and in your hand without pulling.

   

  When your horse is happy going into your contact you can start to show him how to stretch. Put your knee and thigh in for a couple of strides to steady him and make sure his weight is back on his hocks. Then push on and release them. As he moves forward relax your thumb on the rein. Allow your reins to slide through your fingers as he reaches down for the contact. DON’T throw him a couple of inches and expect him to find it!

   

  Your horse will take as much rein as you allow him to but there will be a time when he starts to doubt himself. When you feel him hesitate put your thumb back down on the rein to reassure him the contact is still there. (Close the lid) Be happy to accept small changes while he starts to understand the exercise and quick to praise him. With practise he’ll feel confident enough to reach for the floor.

   

  When you come to bring him up again use both legs and then close your thigh and knee into the saddle. The pressure on his shoulders will slow him down. As he slows down he’ll sit on his hocks and lift his head up. Take up the slack in your reins immediately. Lean forward and take up your outside rein first. Then take up the inside and ride forward thinking about keeping the pressure even on your reins.

   

  When you take up your contact your horse knows it’s time to work. When you give him a loose rein he knows he’s finished. Bear that in mind the next time you allow him to stretch.

   

  Good luck and enjoy your schooling. 

  If you need help or advice with your horse get in touch via the forum or email me at lorraine@schoolyourhorse.com It’s free and I’m more than happy to help.

  Are you stuck for things to do between lessons? Check out the schooling guides in The Shop. At 99p they’re affordable and they could be just what you need to help you help your horse.

• Great Expectations
  13 days ago

  
  

  Is your horse responsive? How responsive? Will he do as you ask as soon as you ask? Or does it take a few seconds for the penny to drop? Some horses are sharper than others but before you blame him look at your expectations. How quickly do you actually expect him to react? You may think ‘immediately’ but do you really?

   

  Imagine you’re walking up the long side and you want to trot at E. You’re walking towards E and gradually increasing the amount of leg you’ve got on so he knows something’s coming. (You’ve probably shuffled your fingers up the reins too.) Just before E you give him an extra push with both legs … and then he trots on. Not exactly immediate – is it?

   

  Your horse should always be waiting for your next aid. When you give it he should go the instant your leg makes contact. That’s responsive. To get him there takes more than leg work. You need to raise your expectations.

   

  As a herd animal your horse needs a leader. Make sure it’s you. You won’t gain his respect through soft or aggressive behaviour. You need to be consistent, firm and fair. Everything that happens on the ground will have a knock on effect when you ride. Make some simple ground rules and stick to them.

   

  The way you approach your horse in the field or his stable will have an instant affect on his mood. Bounce down the yard and wish him a cheery good morning and he’ll be pleased to see you. Drag yourself down to his door and slump over it yawning and don’t be surprised if he doesn’t even look round from his hay net.

   

  If your horse is in the way when you walk into his stable then he should step back or move over for you. It sounds simple but do you expect him to? How many times have you asked him to move over and then ignored the fact he didn’t and ducked under his neck and worked round him? Have you ever squeezed between him and the door? Teach him that when you ask you expect. Be consistent. It will help your schooling.

   

  When you lead your horse from the stable do you allow him to stretch his head and neck out towards you before he deigns to put one foot in front of the other? It may seem funny but if he’s struggling to get motivated to leave his stable what hope have you got in getting him to canter? AND if you’re happy to laugh at him for being lazy on the yard aren’t you being unfair when you smack him for it in the school five minutes later?

   

  Lead your horse from the stable to the school with purpose – not as though you’d rather be at home. If he’s lazy it will inspire him. If he’s nervous or young he’ll relax because you’ve taken charge.

   

  From the second your foot hits the stirrup expect your horse to give you 100% concentration. There is never a time that shuffling round the school is beneficial. Expect him to walk forward every time you ride and he will.

   

  Ride with your calf muscle against your horse at all times. It gives a nervous horse confidence and it tells a lazy one you mean business. There’s a split second before you put your leg on when you’ll relax your muscles. That’s when he should realise that a transition is coming. It should be all the warning he needs if he’s listening. When the pressure goes on he should be moving already. If he isn’t use your whip.

   

  Your use of the whip is essential to your horse’s reaction to your leg aids. It isn’t there to punish. It’s there to make your leg aids clearer. If he’s slow to react then one tap behind your leg should be enough. If not you haven’t used it hard enough. Ten small, irritating tickles with a whip don’t equal one easily understood tap. Every horse is different. Use it hard enough to provoke a response. And use your voice to praise him when he does.

   

  Whether your horse is sharp or lazy he needs to learn to accept and listen to your leg. And YOU need to learn to ask him to! Ride round the school asking for halt and walk transitions at every marker. Halt for a couple of seconds and walk on again. Use your thigh and knee squeezed into the saddle to stop him and a single nudge with both heels to ask him to walk on. However quickly he responds double it! Use your knees harder and your heels quicker. Focus on speeding up your mind and his.

   

  As with the whip all horses react differently to the leg. Use as much pressure as you need – once – to get a good response. It’s an interesting exercise to use with a sharp horse because the more you stop-start the more you start to concentrate. Give it five minutes and you’ll realise that you’ve got more leg on than you’ve had for years.

   

  At this stage you can spend an entire session in walk and halt. Start to speed up your horse’s reaction to turns too by using three and four loop serpentines, figures of eight and last minute changes of rein. Be clear with your aids and be positive.

   

  Introduce other paces and transitions when you feel happy in walk and halt. Use direct and indirect transitions on and between markers. The more you can do the better. If you’re not left behind in the upwards transitions it’s not good enough! It’s as much a test of your expectations as your horse’s reactions.

   

  You may find your horse clams up. It is acceptable that he feels confused but that doesn’t mean he can slow down his reactions. Make things easier by sticking to two transitions/paces for that session but not by allowing his response to be slower.

   

  Any horse can be taught to be more responsive – even yours. Raise you expectations and he might just surprise you. And remember. If you don’t ask you won’t get!

   

  Good luck and enjoy your schooling.

  If you have a problem with your horse don’t hesitate to get in touch via the forum - http://www.schoolyourhorse.com/#!/forum/

  or email me at lorraine@schoolyourhorse.com

  There are three series of downloadable schooling guides in the shop all designed to make it easier for you to school your horse on your own.At just 99p they won’t break the bank either!

  For a more detailed look at getting your horse more responsive check out Teach Yourself 1 - http://www.schoolyourhorse.com/shop/syh-books/school-your-horse-book-1-responsiveness/

  OR brush up on your aids with Get Started 2 - http://www.schoolyourhorse.com/shop/syh-books/get-started-2/

   

• Going Down …
  20 days ago

   

  It’s more common for a horse to lift his head above the bit to avoid your hand but what do you do if your horse drops his head down and gets behind it? You may lift your hands and kick on – you want him to lift his head up after all. Or perhaps you drop the contact and kick on to prove to anyone watching you’re not holding his head down. The trouble is neither method actually works.

   

  Horses overbend for two reasons – to avoid a contact or because there isn’t one. When you’re trying to get your horse on the bit you should push him forward into your contact. If the contact isn’t there he’ll fall onto his shoulders and lose balance. Some horses poke their noses or lift their heads when they’re unbalanced but others try to lean on the bit and when they don’t find it they just keep going!

   

  Some riders adopt a side rein position to get their horse’s nose down. Opening your hands to the side and fixing them one either side of the neck will fix a horse’s head down but it won’t do anything else.

   

  Your horse’s shoulders aren’t attached to his spine by bone so his shoulders can move wherever they want. If your hands are too far apart his shoulders will move away from each other allowing his withers to drop and his head carriage to get lower.

   

  If you fix your hands your horse will quickly become uncomfortable. Some horses will just lean back but others have learnt how to avoid that pressure. They tuck their nose into their chest and overbend or get ‘behind the vertical’.

   

  When your horse is in the correct position you should be able to draw a line down the front of his face and it should drop straight to the ground. When he’s behind the vertical his nose (and that imaginary line) points back towards his front legs. When he tips his head at that angle the bit drops away from his tongue and the corners of his mouth which is why he’ll feel lighter than usual and harder to steer.

   

  It can be easy to confuse ‘lightness’ with overbending but look at the line that should run from your elbow through your wrist, down the rein to the bit. If your horse is working forward into your hand that line will be straight. If he’s overbent it will break at your hand and drop down. Whenever that line is broken the energy you create by using your legs is lost which is why horses that overbend often feel as if they’re going nowhere. (Lightness in your hand means he’s quick to react to your aids. It doesn’t mean there’s no weight at the end of your reins)

   

  To get your horse back up onto the bit he needs to sit back on his hocks and go into your contact. Forget about his head and worry about getting him moving. Keeping him on his hocks requires leg work – yours and his. You need to drive his hind legs under his body with both legs so he stays balanced. Only then can you put him into your contact and keep him there.

   

  When your horse is working forward correctly you’ll feel some pressure on your reins but it’s a relaxed pressure – similar to a child pulling your hand NOT swinging from the bottom of your arm! Equally if that child drops your hand you have no control over where they go. Ride large in all three paces before introducing three loop serpentines and figures of eight to keep him thinking. Concentrate on keeping the same pressure in both reins. It’s this pressure he has been trying to avoid. If he drops off it you need to push his hocks under his body NOT pull his head back.

   

  Never lift your hands up to get your horse’s head up. You need push his nose away from his chest not pull it up. Focus on keeping your hands above his withers and pushing him to it. Pull back and he’ll draw his head back and curl up. If you feel him get light on the contact put both legs on firmly and push your hands forward an inch to encourage him to stretch his neck not shorten it. Never throw your reins at him – you’re aim is to get him in your contact not out of it!

   

  Your horse must be straight to round his back correctly. Work on the ¼ and ¾ lines in any pace to make sure you ride between both legs and into both reins. When his quarters stay directly behind his shoulders he can drive himself forward. Pay particular attention to your turns at each end. Turn your body, keep your hands level and out in front of you and push on! Slow down, pull back or drop your hands down and you’re inviting him to fall onto his shoulders and overbend.

   

  Practise riding trot-walk-trot transitions on the centre line. Concentrate on riding forward and staying straight. Drive your horse to your hand don’t pull him back into it. Use your knee and thigh pushed into the saddle to slow down not your hand and you’ll find he’s happier to accept your contact.

   

  ‘On the bit’ isn’t art. You can’t pull your horse into shape you have to push him there. It’s a natural way of going for a horse that is working correctly. And when he’s working correctly from behind he’ll always work correctly in front.

   

  Good luck and enjoy your schooling.

   

  For a more detailed look at slowing your horse down with your knee and thigh check out Book 1 in the Teach Yourself series –   http://www.schoolyourhorse.com/shop/syh-books/school-your-horse-book-1-responsiveness/

  If you have a problem with your horse email me – lorraine@schoolyourhorse.com or leave a message or post a video on the forum - http://www.schoolyourhorse.com/forum/?mingleforumaction=viewforum&f=10.0

   

   

   

   

• Put Him There and Keep Him There
  26 days ago

   

  When you school your horse how much of your session do you spend in trot? Why? Chances are you’re either trying to get him on the bit or you think you’ve got him there and you don’t want to upset things. The thing is – if he was really on the bit you’d be able to do anything with him without upsetting him.

   

  The phrase ‘on the bit’ is unfortunate. Of all horsy terminology it’s the most commonly misinterpreted. It has very little to do with what goes on the bit – and everything to do with what goes on behind it. Take a look at the basic mechanics.

   

  When you push your horse on into a steady contact it doesn’t allow him to go any faster. Because his hind legs can’t move quicker they step further underneath his body bringing his quarters and his shoulders closer together. As they get closer his back has to round. (Try it yourself) If he’s relaxed his spine lifts upwards, giving him the shape you’ll know as on the bit. But what if he’s tense?

   

  Every time you pull on a rein your horse will tighten his back. Yet somewhere along the line every rider learns to pull one rein and then the other to ‘get their horse’s head down’. This causes enough discomfort for the horse to admit defeat and put his head in. But that’s all he does. Further back his body is tightening against the pressure. His spine still rounds but the wrong way. He hollows. Whilst he may look as if he’s going well when you change anything he’ll pop his head back up and you’re back to Square One. Which is why it’s easier to stay in trot.

   

  Your aim should be to push your horse forward into a steady contact. (Push his quarters towards his shoulders – never pull his shoulders back to his quarters.) Your contact is kept constant between your thumb and first finger. Your 2^nd and 3^rd fingers should move so you don’t fix on each other. Using both legs at the same time – with an extra tap with the whip if he’s lazy – will push his hocks under his body, his quarters and shoulders will get closer together and he will naturally go onto the bit.

   

  You may argue that your horse “won’t do that” but that’s only because you get fed up because you know it’s quicker to do a quick left, right, left. YOU need to get that thought out of your head and stick it out! Be consistent and he’ll learn to trust your hand and relax. If you start off with good intentions and then opt for the short cut is it any wonder that he’s resisting your hand?

   

  But what if your horse is really settling onto the bit in trot and you’re genuinely losing the softness between paces? It’s probably down to something you’re doing – or not doing – in the transitions.

   

  From trot to walk be sure you’re riding the three or four strides before and after the transition. Reduce the pressure at this critical moment and your horse will stop using his hocks and his quarters and shoulders will get further apart. When that happens his back flattens – as does his trot. He’ll fall into walk and lean down onto your hand. This will put his whole weight onto his shoulders – he’ll either poke his nose or drop behind the bit. Either way it will take you half a circuit to get him back again – by which time you’ve probably decided to trot on again.

   

  Are you too heavy handed to walk? It’s easily done if your horse is soft and going well. Horses are sensitive and when they’re relaxed their senses are heightened. The slightest change in pressure will have an effect. If you pull back too hard he’ll tighten his jaw and his back. The tension in his body will draw his head and neck up and back making him hollow. He’s very likely to jog a few strides before you get him to walk. Again by the time you’ve settled him you’ll be thinking about trotting on again.

   

  Try this – Ride forward in trot until you’re ready to walk. Tighten your knee and thigh into your saddle which will slow your horse down by restricting his shoulder muscles. (His shoulders aren’t attached to his spine and this has far less effect on his back) This should mean you can use the smallest of squeezes on your rein to tell him to walk. Then, keeping your lower leg on relax your thigh, knee and fingers on the reins to allow him to walk on. And he’ll do just that.

   

  Trot to canter is always an event but it doesn’t need to be. Treat it as you would a trot to walk transition. If you don’t get tense or start fidgeting in the saddle your horse will think nothing of it. It’s just a change of leg sequence after all.

   

  Many riders try too hard to get their horse to canter. In doing so they either use unclear leg aids by flapping, lean to one side to help him get the right leg or lose the contact because they think the less they hold the easier it is for him to go forward. If your horse is working softly, he’ll need much less encouragement. If you do any one of those things here’s what happens –  

  • Changing from a calm, still position to one where your legs suddenly bang on and start flapping isn’t going to help him stay relaxed and he won’t be able to understand a word you’re saying!
  • Leaning to the inside makes him feel unbalanced. If his weight is on the inside shoulder he’s going to put out his outside shoulder to steady himself. Result? The outside leg becomes his leading leg and he’ll be disunited or take the incorrect lead.
  • The slightest loss of the contact will be enough to drop his weight on his shoulders making it impossible for him to canter – so instead he’ll poke his nose and rush.

   

  It’s very common for a horse to be crooked in canter which is where many problems with losing the softness stem from. If your horse isn’t straight he can’t push himself forward correctly. His quarters must follow in the tracks of his shoulders – even on a circle. (Imagine yourself doing a forward roll. Your whole body is in a curved position but your hips are on the same line as your shoulders)

   

  Look at your canter aids. Once you’re in canter what do you do with your outside leg? You should move it back to its usual position. You do? Check your outside hip came forward with it. There’s a chance it got left behind. Whatever you do with your hips your horse will do with his. If his outside hip is further back than his inside one his quarters will move to the inside. When he’s crooked he can’t push his hocks under his body, his quarters and shoulders move apart and so his back doesn’t round.

   

  Those three little words ‘on the bit’ are foremost in every rider’s head but do yourself and your horse a favour next time you ride and change them to ‘leg into hand.’  

   

  Good luck and enjoy your schooling.

   

  The schooling guides in the shop http://www.schoolyourhorse.com/#!/shop/ are proving popular – thank you to everyone who has been in touch. Please leave a comment on the Forum http://www.schoolyourhorse.com/#!/forum/ if there is something you’d like to see in a future guide or if you found one of them useful. 

  The Teach Yourself series has a new edition. TY4 is all about The Speed Merchant. If your horse is sharp, silly or strong it could be the one for you. http://www.schoolyourhorse.com/shop/syh-books/teach-yourself-4-the-speed-merchant/

   

   

   

• Put Him There and Keep Him There
  27 days ago

   

  When you school your horse how much of your session do you spend in trot? Why? Chances are you’re either trying to get him on the bit or you think you’ve got him there and you don’t want to upset things. The thing is – if he was really on the bit you’d be able to do anything with him without upsetting him.

   

  The phrase ‘on the bit’ is unfortunate. Of all horsy terminology it’s the most commonly misinterpreted. It has very little to do with what goes on the bit – and everything to do with what goes on behind it. Take a look at the basic mechanics.

   

  When you push your horse on into a steady contact it doesn’t allow him to go any faster. Because his hind legs can’t move quicker they step further underneath his body bringing his quarters and his shoulders closer together. As they get closer his back has to round. (Try it yourself) If he’s relaxed his spine lifts upwards, giving him the shape you’ll know as on the bit. But what if he’s tense?

   

  Every time you pull on a rein your horse will tighten his back. Yet somewhere along the line every rider learns to pull one rein and then the other to ‘get their horse’s head down’. This causes enough discomfort for the horse to admit defeat and put his head in. But that’s all he does. Further back his body is tightening against the pressure. His spine still rounds but the wrong way. He hollows. Whilst he may look as if he’s going well when you change anything he’ll pop his head back up and you’re back to Square One. Which is why it’s easier to stay in trot.

   

  Your aim should be to push your horse forward into a steady contact. (Push his quarters towards his shoulders – never pull his shoulders back to his quarters.) Your contact is kept constant between your thumb and first finger. Your 2^nd and 3^rd fingers should move so you don’t fix on each other. Using both legs at the same time – with an extra tap with the whip if he’s lazy – will push his hocks under his body, his quarters and shoulders will get closer together and he will naturally go onto the bit.

   

  You may argue that your horse “won’t do that” but that’s only because you get fed up because you know it’s quicker to do a quick left, right, left. YOU need to get that thought out of your head and stick it out! Be consistent and he’ll learn to trust your hand and relax. If you start off with good intentions and then opt for the short cut is it any wonder that he’s resisting your hand?

   

  But what if your horse is really settling onto the bit in trot and you’re genuinely losing the softness between paces? It’s probably down to something you’re doing – or not doing – in the transitions.

   

  From trot to walk be sure you’re riding the three or four strides before and after the transition. Reduce the pressure at this critical moment and your horse will stop using his hocks and his quarters and shoulders will get further apart. When that happens his back flattens – as does his trot. He’ll fall into walk and lean down onto your hand. This will put his whole weight onto his shoulders – he’ll either poke his nose or drop behind the bit. Either way it will take you half a circuit to get him back again – by which time you’ve probably decided to trot on again.

   

  Are you too heavy handed to walk? It’s easily done if your horse is soft and going well. Horses are sensitive and when they’re relaxed their senses are heightened. The slightest change in pressure will have an effect. If you pull back too hard he’ll tighten his jaw and his back. The tension in his body will draw his head and neck up and back making him hollow. He’s very likely to jog a few strides before you get him to walk. Again by the time you’ve settled him you’ll be thinking about trotting on again.

   

  Try this – Ride forward in trot until you’re ready to walk. Tighten your knee and thigh into your saddle which will slow your horse down by restricting his shoulder muscles. (His shoulders aren’t attached to his spine and this has far less effect on his back) This should mean you can use the smallest of squeezes on your rein to tell him to walk. Then, keeping your lower leg on relax your thigh, knee and fingers on the reins to allow him to walk on. And he’ll do just that.

   

  Trot to canter is always an event but it doesn’t need to be. Treat it as you would a trot to walk transition. If you don’t get tense or start fidgeting in the saddle your horse will think nothing of it. It’s just a change of leg sequence after all.

   

  Many riders try too hard to get their horse to canter. In doing so they either use unclear leg aids by flapping, lean to one side to help him get the right leg or lose the contact because they think the less they hold the easier it is for him to go forward. If your horse is working softly, he’ll need much less encouragement. If you do any one of those things here’s what happens –  

  • Changing from a calm, still position to one where your legs suddenly bang on and start flapping isn’t going to help him stay relaxed and he won’t be able to understand a word you’re saying!
  • Leaning to the inside makes him feel unbalanced. If his weight is on the inside shoulder he’s going to put out his outside shoulder to steady himself. Result? The outside leg becomes his leading leg and he’ll be disunited or take the incorrect lead.
  • The slightest loss of the contact will be enough to drop his weight on his shoulders making it impossible for him to canter – so instead he’ll poke his nose and rush.

   

  It’s very common for a horse to be crooked in canter which is where many problems with losing the softness stem from. If your horse isn’t straight he can’t push himself forward correctly. His quarters must follow in the tracks of his shoulders – even on a circle. (Imagine yourself doing a forward roll. Your whole body is in a curved position but your hips are on the same line as your shoulders)

   

  Look at your canter aids. Once you’re in canter what do you do with your outside leg? You should move it back to its usual position. You do? Check your outside hip came forward with it. There’s a chance it got left behind. Whatever you do with your hips your horse will do with his. If his outside hip is further back than his inside one his quarters will move to the inside. When he’s crooked he can’t push his hocks under his body, his quarters and shoulders move apart and so his back doesn’t round.

   

  Those three little words ‘on the bit’ are foremost in every rider’s head but do yourself and your horse a favour next time you ride and change them to ‘leg into hand.’  

   

  Good luck and enjoy your schooling.

   

  The schooling guides in the shop http://www.schoolyourhorse.com/#!/shop/ are proving popular – thank you to everyone who has been in touch. Please leave a comment on the Forum http://www.schoolyourhorse.com/#!/forum/ if there is something you’d like to see in a future guide or if you found one of them useful. 

  The Teach Yourself series has a new edition. TY4 is all about The Speed Merchant. If your horse is sharp, silly or strong it could be the one for you. http://www.schoolyourhorse.com/shop/syh-books/teach-yourself-4-the-speed-merchant/

   

   

   

• Are Your Fingers on the Brake?
  about a month ago

   

   

  Are you confused between energy and power (impulsion)? Don’t be. Energy is the fizz you get when you shake a bottle of coke. Power is the pressure of that fizz as it pushes against the lid before you open the bottle. In riding terms your legs create the fizz and your rein contact (the lid) gives it something to push against. Trouble arises when your contact is too tight and puts a backward pressure on your horse’s mouth – it’s like driving with the hand brake on. Look at it another way -

   

  Imagine you have to push a parked car up the road. It’s stationary so you put your weight behind it. If the brake is off the car will move fwd. If you keep pushing it will keep moving until you pull back on it to stop it. You’ve created power because you have something to push against that is mobile. If the brake is on no matter how hard you push it’s going to stay solid and resistant. Eventually you’ll have to admit defeat and stop trying. If that happens every time you try to move it you’re going to stop trying before you start, aren’t you?

   

  Now imagine what would happen if the pressure disappeared because someone drove that car away as you were pushing? You’d fall flat on your face – right? Funny it may be but it’s exactly what happens to your horse every time you lose your contact.

   

  There’s a fine line between a steady contact and tight one. To keep it consistent and the same length you need to clamp your reins between your thumb and first finger. If your fingers grip the reins they’ll will feel solid and tense to your horse. Move your 2nd and 3rd fingers as if you were texting someone and you’ll create enough movement on the rein to create a soft but firm feeling in his mouth.

   

  Any tension in your body will directly affect your contact. To your horse it will feel as if the brake is always on. It won’t matter how much leg you use. If he’s pushing into a dead, solid contact in the end he’ll stop trying.

   

  Keep your arm soft by pointing your thumb towards the bit. You need a straight line from your elbow through your wrist, down the rein to the bit. Often you’ll find it’s tipping up towards your horse’s ear. In that case you create a break in the line and a backwards feeling on his mouth. Any form of backward pressure will create tension.

   

  There’s a stage in riding when riders feel the urge to squeeze on their reins to get their horse on the bit. It’s unnecessary. When a horse is ridden forward to a steady, soft contact his back will round as his hips are pushed towards his shoulders. If you’re pulling back on one rein and throwing away the contact on the other … well you’re not exactly making it easy for him, are you?

   

  It’s much easier to focus on your hand and thumb position in trot as your horse’s head and neck stay still. In walk and canter there is an obvious head nod. Do you move your arm forward with him or back against him? Next time you ride check that out.

   

  Your horse may need to relearn to relax and walk forward into your contact. If he’s become used to you pulling back on the bit every time he nods forward he’ll have learnt to keep his head and neck still. Do you often moan that he sets his neck?

   

  Many riders unwittingly squeeze back on their horse as he nods away from their hand. What they should be doing is moving their whole arm forward with him and coming back to maintain the contact. Walk large and focus on your arms. Think of your reins as two flexible poles that your horse pulls forward and pushes back.

   

  Go large in walk on a long rein and push on. Watch your horse nod forward and back as he walks. Ride at least three circuits on each rein so he really starts to relax. Then keep up the pressure from your legs and take up your contact. Don’t dither when you do this. Lean forward and take up your outside rein, hold both reins in your outside hand and take up your inside rein to match. ‘Shimmying’ your fingers up the reins is irritating and unnecessary.

   

  Once you’re in medium walk focus on the pressure in your hand. Move your 2^nd and 3^rd fingers to keep your contact soft, point your thumb towards the bit so your arm stays relaxed and concentrate on following your horse’s head and neck forward and back. Initially you may find you push forward too far or that he comes back quicker than you expected but relax your arm – shut your eyes if you need to – and stop trying so hard. Let him take your hand forward and concentrate on keeping the weight in your rein as he comes back. Practise out hacking too when you’ll be more relaxed.

   

  Work on your canter in the same way – you may find it easier than walk. The head nod is far more obvious as your horse will be naturally more forward. Even if he feels as if he’s pulling or going to take off remember you’re not giving him the reins you’re just following his head. He’ll only pull if he’s uptight. If you pull he’ll get uptight.

   

  It’s hard work changing things that have become a habit but in this case it will make all the difference. You expect your horse to accept your contact, right? Make sure you make it acceptable.

   

  Good luck and enjoy your schooling.

   

  If you have a problem, a video you’d like some advice on or you’d just like to chat about your horse join me on the forum - http://www.schoolyourhorse.com/#!/forum/

  For a more detailed look at your aids check out Get Started 2 -  http://www.schoolyourhorse.com/shop/syh-books/teach-yourself-3-your-attention-please/ 

  If you often feel that you’re the last thing on your horse’s mind you might like the new guide in the Teach Yourself series. Check out ‘Your Attention Please’ which will give you some great ideas to get him focused on you - http://www.schoolyourhorse.com/shop/syh-books/teach-yourself-3-your-attention-please/

   

  
  

• It’s a Pleasure … isn’t it?
  about a month ago

  Are you a nervous rider? Don’t apologise – it doesn’t make you a bad one. In the long term, if you push yourself through it, you’ll develop an inner strength that many riders will never find. Nervousness comes in many forms but when it stands in the way of what is supposed to be your hobby it’s time to do something about it.

   

  It’s common for riders to lose their nerve after a fall or a fright. It’s only natural you’d worry that it might happen again. Whilst some riders can push that doubt to the back of their minds if you’re nervous it can become an obsession. It won’t matter how many times someone tells you you’ll be fine nothing will stop you worrying. With worry comes tension and there is no better way to show your horse that something is worth getting uptight about than you getting uptight.

   

  Sometimes nerves are just part of your personality. Perhaps you’re naturally cautious. For you it’s the fear of the unknown that spoils your riding. People will probably ask you why you bother to ride but deep down you’re determined. When you get off there’s no better sense of achievement – right? Unfortunately when you do ride there’s always that little knot of fear that something will go wrong. And – when you’re uptight about it – it invariably does!

   

  You could be one of the many riders who have an inbuilt fear that what they’re doing with their horse is wrong. You feel you don’t know enough. OK, so you’re not nervous of actual riding (or of your horse) but where’s the fun in always thinking you’re doing a bad job? No matter how many people tell you you’re doing OK you still look at yourself and criticize. The constant worry that you’re not doing your horse any favours is spoiling your hobby as much as being frightened would.

   

  If you suffer from lack of confidence you need to change the way you think. Don’t watch your friends and envy them. Stop finding fault with yourself and start to appreciate your strong points. Look at a video or photo and list five things about you or your horse that you like. (Don’t even dare to look for the bad!)  And don’t just say “Well it’s him not me” if he has good points they’re there because you’re doing something right.

   

  If you’re nervous of the unknown your nerves, although physically real, are often irrational. Sit down and think about the number of times you’ve ridden. How many times have things really gone badly? You need to prove to your brain that nothing awful is going to happen every time you ride. Getting too much sympathy can make things worse. Whilst you need support you also need an instructor or friend who will push you gently in the right direction. The only way to prove to yourself that you can do it is to do it!

   

  Nervous people often classify themselves as wimps or stupid. It’s easy to think you need to knuckle down and get on with it but that’s not true! If your nerves are there for a reason why put yourself through it again? If your horse bucks you off when you ask him for canter at A why not ask him at X? If he only does it from trot to canter then ask from walk. Actually why not have a break from canter anyway? This is your hobby and if you never cantered again so what?! The funny thing is when you stop pressuring yourself you find you start to relax. Avoiding something that worries you isn’t stupid – doing it again and again … well it’s not exactly intelligent, is it?!

   

  A nervous mind is exactly the same as a nervous horse. It needs to keep busy. Don’t walk round the school while your heart races and your fingers start trembling. You don’t have to go faster but you do need to move. Use circles and serpentines to keep your body occupied. If you feel yourself tensing up focus on something else – try counting down from 100, saying the alphabet backwards or listing the months of the year in reverse.

   

  Another way to keep yourself focused is to ride round the school in one pace for a set number of strides before moving up or down into another for one stride less. Start with 20 and go to 19 …18 etc. Because you’re counting you’ve got something to think about. In time it can be hypnotic. With your mind occupied on something else your body will relax and so will your horse.

   

  Your horse is a herd animal. He can only relax when he knows he has a leader. Be assertive (not aggressive) by riding transitions at every marker or riding three loop serpentines and figures of eight so you’re constantly changing the rein and keeping him guessing. You don’t have to use canter; you can easily work between walk, trot and halt. Short bursts of each pace and frequent changes of direction will make you think and show him you’re in control.

   

  Does your horse buck? It’s understandable you get nervous thinking about it but stop and think about the mechanics of bucking. To do it he needs to get his weight over his shoulders and lower his head. If you sit back you’ll put his weight back over his hocks. Keep your contact even and your reins short enough and he won’t be able to get his head down to buck. Problem perhaps not solved but definitely avoided.

   

  Your body has the greatest effect on your horse. The easiest way to tighten it is to hold your breath. It’s easy to do when you’re nervous. Try it now. As you breathe in and stop everything in your body tightens. He’ll feel that tension and do the same.

   

  Horses are flight animals – they’re built to react quickly. Any sudden move you make will have the same effect on your horse. Do you grab at your reins if you anticipate a problem? Imagine if you were holding a child’s hand, not your rein. If you suddenly grabbed at it would you be surprised if they jumped? Keep your mind busy and your body moving and you’ll stop looking for potential problems.

   

  Horses are never 100% reliable but your horse really does want to please you. Things will go wrong but never as often as you think. Remember the good times not the bad and you’ll soon wonder what you were worried about in the first place.

   

  Good luck and enjoy your schooling.

   

  If you want to talk about a problem with your horse or with your nerves don’t hesitate to contact me on the forum or at lorraine@schoolyourhorse.com

   

  Have you seen ‘Show and Tell’ on the forum? Upload your video of a test or of you schooling your horse and I’ll do my best to offer some helpful hints. Take a look at those already on there to see what you could gain from this free service – http://www.schoolyourhorse.com/forum/?mingleforumaction=viewforum&f=17.0

   

  If you’re trying to tackle your nerves when you’re out hacking check out the posts on this great blog too -  http://horsethought.com/?p=414

   

• Look Out!
  about a month ago

  How many times are you told to look up? It’s a common fault and yet one of the easiest to cure. There are very few things that are improved by NOT looking where you’re going and a dressage test is definitely not one of them!

   

  A dressage test is made up of a series of movements and transitions. At least that’s how it seems at first glance. Those movements are on the left hand side of the sheet. On the right hand side you’ll see what the judge is looking for – straightness, balance and accuracy. All are affected by where you look.

   

  Everything you do – however small it may seem – has an effect on your horse. If you look down your weight will tip forward over his shoulders. This will unbalance him and mean he’ll find it impossible to sit back on his hocks. If he feels unbalanced he’ll lean on your hands to support himself and he’ll tighten his back to stop himself falling flat on his nose. All this can be avoided if you just look where you’re going.

   

  Looking down is one of those habits that you’ll need to nag at yourself about. Get into the habit of checking every time you pass A, E, C and B. (While you’re at it check to see if your reins are short enough too!) Do it often enough and you’ll find you start to do it naturally. It’s a habit and all habits can be broken.

   

  Accuracy and straightness go hand in hand. The easiest way to get somewhere is to look towards it. In a test the most obvious place is the centre line. It’s the first impression the judge gets of you. Get it straight and there’s no reason you can’t start on an 8 but how can you if you’re not looking towards C?

   

  All turns and circles can be ridden just from the position of your body. Your horse will copy everything you do with your body with his. Turn your hips and shoulders to the right and so will he. You’ll find it so much easier if you look to the right too. And so will he.

   

  There is a big difference between looking towards and staring at. It’s easy to make a huge effort and stare at the judge’s car. The problem with that is you get fixated with it. It’s only when you get to G and realise you have to turn left or right that you snap out of it and swing your head and body in the direction you want to go. Whilst it undoubtedly does wonders for your straightness it’s not great for the fluency.

   

  Looking without fixing on something is harder than it sounds. Practise when you’re driving, hacking out and even walking. Whilst it’s OK to stare at the screen while you’re reading this when you’re moving you need to look through things. Use your whole line of vision and start to see the things at the side not just in front.

   

  In the warm up at a show how you look up can make a big difference. Be careful you don’t look forward and down. It’s easy to tip your head back but still be looking at the floor twenty metres up the track. Open your eyes and look straight ahead so you’re aware of what other riders are doing. Get in their way once and they’ll forgive you. Make a habit of it – especially because you’re not looking where you’re going – and you’ll soon make yourself unpopular. Shows are stressful enough, aren’t they?

   

  Try trotting down the centre line. Look directly at C until you’re lined up and then relax so you take in the things either side and behind it. Look at something in the distance and you’ll ride forward and round the turn at the end. In a test that turn is important. Many riders forget about it, do a fantastic centre line and then lose rhythm on the turn because they haven’t planned it correctly. Try this because it works.

   

  Bad habits always resurface when you’re nervous. Transitions are a classic time – especially to canter. Every time you look down your horse will fall onto his shoulders. In a canter transition it’s most common for riders to look down to the inside to try to encourage their horse to get the correct leg. Don’t! When he canters your horse needs to put out his inside front leg to balance himself – as you would if you were falling to the inside. If your weight is over his inside shoulder he’ll put out his outside front leg. Result? Wrong leg.

   

  If you look up in a transition you’ll sit back on your seat and support your own body weight and make it as easy as possible for your horse to carry his. All movements and transitions are directly affected by his balance – or lack of it. If he’s well balanced in a dressage test the results show up in your collective marks at the end. In some tests these marks are worth as much as the test itself. They’re often forgotten about but they’re often the difference between winning and losing too.

   

  Good luck and enjoy your schooling.

   

   

• The Bigger Picture? Forget it!
  about a month ago

  You’ve heard the expression “Look at the bigger picture” – right? It’s a great way of looking at life. But not when you’re schooling your horse! Too many riders focus on getting their horse on the bit without actually thinking about what gets him there.

   

  On the bit is the result of good schooling – not something that’s needed at the start. It doesn’t matter if you’re schooling your horse for the first time or working towards a Grand Prix dressage test if the fundamental parts are wrong your horse can’t work onto the bit. Forget about the bigger picture. Start looking at the smaller one!

   

  To work correctly your horse needs to sit back on his hocks. This gives him the balance and the energy to drive himself forward. If you contain this energy by holding a steady rein contact you’ll push his quarters nearer to his shoulders and he’ll have to round his back. This gives him the shape everyone refers to as on the bit.

   

  Your horse can’t sit back on his hocks if he’s crooked. His shoulders must be directly in front of his quarters. Whilst there is a chance your saddle needs checking or his back is ‘out’ there’s a strong chance his crookedness is down to one thing. You!

   

  Your position affects everything your horse does. Whatever you do with your shoulders and hips he’ll do with his. On a circle if you turn your shoulders to the inside but not your hips he’ll do the same. His shoulders will turn but his quarters will go straight on – or swing out. It won’t matter how much outside leg you use if your hips aren’t in line with your shoulders he’ll stay crooked.

   

  On the bit isn’t created by pulling your horse’s head back towards his body – or from side to side. All this does is makes him uncomfortable enough to drop his nose down away from the pressure. The minute you stop he’ll come up again because the muscles in his back are tense and they need to stretch.

   

  When your horse’s back is tense it hollows. This pushes his quarters and shoulders further away from each other. He can’t sit on his hocks and no matter how hard you use your legs your efforts are wasted. Stop pulling and maintain a steady contact on his mouth and he’ll relax. When you use your legs he’ll step under his body and work forward into your contact. This contact acts like a dam. Energy gets trapped behind it and as long as you don’t drop it you’ll keep him connected between leg and hand.

   

  Schooling isn’t boring but trotting endless circles is! Your horse’s job is to do as you ask but your job is to make life interesting enough for him to want to. Get creative! Ride figures of eight in walk and trot. Canter 15m circles instead of 20m. Anything different will spark his interest and keep his attention.

   

  Three loop serpentines are great shapes to use in any pace. It’s not the shape that makes them difficult – it’s how you tackle them. A serpentine is just three half 13m circles joined together by straight lines. They’re interesting to use in trot and, done correctly, fun to use in canter.

   

  Trot serpentines to focus on your position. As you ride each loop make sure your shoulders and hips are in line. Your horse will do the same. When you can turn and straighten him without constant corrections he’ll relax and work into your contact.

   

  To get your horse shorter in his outline you need to get his quarters nearer to his shoulders. You need to ‘shunt’ them together. Ride trot to halt transitions as you cross the centre line. Ride forward into the halt. Your legs aren’t asking for speed – they’re pushing his hocks further under his body so he can sit back and balance.  

   

  The way you sit on the saddle will affect your transitions. Take responsibility for your own weight. Sit square to the front and on all three parts of your seat. As you cross the ¼ line straighten up, sit up and look up. Look down and you’ll tip forward. Your horse will fall onto his shoulders and find it impossible to sit on his hocks.

   

  To keep your horse’s attention ride circles in the end of each loop or add a 10m circle as you cross the centre line. The fewer aids you have to use the easier it is for your horse to understand. Turn your shoulders and hips onto the line you want to take and he’ll do the same. Keep your hands together and you’ll keep his shoulders together and stop him falling in or out. Focus on keeping the contact the same in both reins. If you lose the contact on one rein you’ll allow energy to escape.

   

  Cantering a serpentine isn’t beyond the capabilities of any horse. Start by cantering the first loop. Ride a full circle to gauge the size of it. Ride straight across the school when your horse is balanced. Trot as you cross the ¼ to give you time to steady him before you start the new rein. Stay in trot for the rest of the shape.

   

  Add each loop by asking for canter on a circle within it. Initially it’s important to focus on making the size of the loops accurate so your horse stays balanced. As he improves you can start to introduce the transitions between the ¼ and ¾ lines. Don’t limit yourself to canter to trot either. Why not use canter to walk? They’re great attention grabbers and they’ll improve your horse’s balance and concentration.

   

  Everyone needs to think about the bigger picture. It’s what motivates you to try harder. But get obsessed with it and you’ll stand no chance of reaching it. Get your horse working forward, keep his attention by using fewer aids and more interesting movements and before long you’ll find he’s relaxed in his back, straight and focused. Isn’t that the bigger picture?

   

  Good luck and enjoy your schooling. 

• Keep the Simple Change Simple!
  2 months ago

   

  Do you find the whole idea of a simple change daunting? Do you think it’s beyond your capabilities or your horse’s? Think again! Simple changes are just transitions between canter and walk. It’s an easy way to change your canter lead. They’re tricky but certainly not impossible. If you can walk, canter and tell if you’re on the correct leg there’s absolutely no reason why you can’t ride one. You just need to take your time. Instead of thinking about it as one movement break it down into separate parts.

   

  There are three parts to a simple change – the canter to walk, the walk and the walk to canter. Many riders skip through the walk in the middle which is where the problems start.  You should think ‘canter … walk ….walk …canter’ but often riders think ‘canter …walkcanter’. What’s the rush? A rushed transition is never a good one. Especially a canter one. Take your time. If you ask your horse for canter before he’s actually finished the last one is it any wonder he gets the wrong lead?

   

  Start with the canter to walk. It needs to be sharp and balanced. Your horse needs to sit back on his hocks to slow down. Ride forward to a steady contact and never pull back. Do that and he’ll tighten his back and stop using his hocks. Depending on his temperament he’ll either jog through the walk or almost halt and lurch forward again.

   

  All transitions need to be straight but it becomes more important in a simple change. If your first transition is crooked who knows where you’ll end up by the second? Practise canter to walk on the long side as you head towards the corner. Riding on the track not a circle will highlight any crookedness. Your horse will naturally back off the fence in the corner too so it’s the ideal place to ask.

   

  Your horse will copy what you do with your body with his. Ride down the long side with your shoulders and hips square to the front and he’ll do the same. Focus on holding your position as you ask him to walk and you’ll help him to sit back on his hocks. When his quarters are behind his shoulders he’ll stay straight and balanced.

   

  Your weight has a huge effect on your horse’s ability to stay balanced from canter into walk. Pull up through your body and look straight ahead – not at the floor 20m further forward. Keeping your head over your body pushes your weight directly down onto your seat. When you’re carrying yourself he can do the same.  

   

  As you ask for walk squeeze your thigh and knee  into the saddle as hard as you can. (Like a clothes peg) This restricts your horse’s shoulder muscles and means you need less pressure on his mouth. Tighten your fingers around both reins but don’t pull back. This combination of your weight, your thigh and the pressure on the reins is enough to stop him in his tracks.

   

  It’s essential to push your horse’s hocks under him as you slow down. He needs to sit in the transition. If you don’t he’ll rock forward onto his shoulders – as a car does when you hit the brake. He may fall into halt and lurch forward or he may break into trot. Use your leg and it’s similar to a hill start in a car – the brake is on but so is the accelerator. He sits on his hocks and lifts his shoulders.

   

  When you feel your horse step into walk relax your fingers and the pressure from your thighs to allow him to go forward. Be patient. This takes practise. Every horse is different. Do it too soon and he’ll jog. Hold on for too long and he’ll halt. Take your time with this stage and you’ll find it easier when you join it all together.

   

  The next step is to ride it across the diagonal. Ride a 15m circle to balance your horse. Steady your canter using your thigh and knee. Focus on keeping his head and neck straight in front of him. Too much inside bend will cause problems as you turn and lead to a crooked transition.

   

  Look up and turn onto the diagonal keeping your body square to the marker you’re aiming for. As you cross the ¼ line tighten your fingers around your reins. Maintain that pressure until you feel him walk. Relax your fingers and knees as he does and ride forward. Walk onto the new rein before moving back to canter through trot.

   

  Work on walk to canter in a separate session. Practise asking as you ride onto the long side. Look up and keep your body square to the front. Asking as you come onto the straight will highlight any crookedness.

   

  Canter aids are the clearest of all aids. Many riders panic and lean forward to ‘encourage’ their horse to canter. Don’t! Your horse will know what you mean. If he doesn’t go first time ride a 10m circle and ask again with a tap with your whip to back up your aid. Never compromise your aids or your position in a transition. Consistency of your aids helps him to understand what you’re asking every time not just once.

   

  With walk to canter aim to canter one long side before you trot and walk again. Use the whole session to do as many transitions as you can. Don’t get one and call it a day. These need to become as normal to you and your horse as a walk to trot transition. They will if you practise. The ‘odd stride of trot’ in between is not an option! You’re not asking for trot you’re asking for canter. Stay focused on what you want and be positive. A quick tap with your whip as you use your inside leg will back up your leg.

   

  With walk to canter established change the rein across the diagonal in walk and ask for canter as you cross the ¾ line. This will keep your horse straight but also make it clear to him which way you are heading. The easier it is the quicker he’ll understand.

   

  Introduce a full simple change across the diagonal. Ask for walk as you cross the ¼ line. Walk all the way across until you have crossed the ¾ line and then canter. This gives your horse time to settle in walk and focus. As he improves reduce the distance between transitions. Don’t rush it. Count your strides between transitions. Start with 10 and work your way back to three.

   

  In time the walk disappears completely. It becomes little more than a hesitation – a half-halt – which later becomes a flying change. But for now keep it simple. You can worry about flying changes another day!

   

  Good luck and enjoy your schooling.

   

  Related posts

  http://www.schoolyourhorse.com/2012/03/10/what-is-it-about-canter/

  http://www.schoolyourhorse.com/shop/syh-books/get-started-2/

  http://www.schoolyourhorse.com/shop/syh-books/school-your-horse-book-2-canter-problems-and-solutions/

  http://www.schoolyourhorse.com/2011/01/06/canter-the-mechanics/

  http://www.schoolyourhorse.com/2011/06/25/canter-wrong-legwrong-aid/

  http://www.schoolyourhorse.com/2011/01/10/the-correct-lead-can-you-tell/